@Tradseker,
Ive used several means. I wuld foto with a digital camera and then make a blowup over which I traced the main folds. Another means was to do several quick pencil sketches in the studio before deciding on the pose. Ive often been able to mess with the models folds in class in case you are too far.
Lots of oil painting classes Ive had proposed that we do a
Lweft to right
Dark to light
method of painting. In complex folds, or paper bags, Ive found that a quick all over underpaint and bold pattrening helps.
PS, If your doing whites, I suppose that theyve told you of the "Magic of lavendar"?