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Mending Outside Corners in Plastered Walls

 
 
Reply Tue 24 Aug, 2010 09:02 am
The walls in my 100+ year old house are largely wet plaster. There is a square bay in the dining room and the outside corners -- those that thrust into the room -- are cracked vertically from floor to ceiling.

I saw the This Old House guys mend a crack using metal buttons that are driven into the wall with an electric drill. I have an electric drill but am timid about using it.

I also wonder whether the buttons can work at a corner.

The other alternative would seem to be applying a strip of that mesh used for bridge holes and gouges.

Advice? Aside from hiring a plasterer which I can not afford . . . but wish I could!
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Type: Discussion • Score: 3 • Views: 5,488 • Replies: 15
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Rockhead
 
  1  
Reply Tue 24 Aug, 2010 09:16 am
@plainoldme,
plastering is an acquired skill.

I would ask around amongst your friends and see if mebbe someone has done it before.

I don't suggest you start drilling. that sounds like a good way to begin the hiring of a plasterer.
Fido
 
  1  
Reply Tue 24 Aug, 2010 10:04 am
@plainoldme,
Just patch it up with sheet rock 45, or some finish mud bought ready to use in a small quantity... If the crack is huge, use some paper tape... If the whole house is plaster and it is yours, and you have children, lose the kids for a while, gut out the house and replace with drywall... That way you get rid of the old leaded paint, and clean up, suit up if necessary, use dispossable masks... Consider why the house is cracking... Is it settling, have some main members, beams for example, broken or been cut???You might consider some pipe jack supports installed permanently before even bothering to patch... It takes a long time for sagging wood to come back... Try gaining a quarter inch every month or two, and good luck... Old houses are old junk, and that is what I am living in, and they suck your time, and even sometimes your health out of you..
ehBeth
 
  1  
Reply Tue 24 Aug, 2010 10:16 am
@Rockhead,
Rockhead wrote:

plastering is an acquired skill.


quite wonderfully, plastering and making dental plates and preparing cake batter have a lot of similarities - once you've got the texture right you've done the most difficult part

POM is a phenomenal baker - with the right advice she could probably make a good go of repairing plaster



(a couple of decades ago, I got injured plasterers jobs in kitchens and/or in dental labs)
JTT
 
  1  
Reply Tue 24 Aug, 2010 10:16 am
@plainoldme,
Quote:
There is a square bay in the dining room and the outside corners -- those that thrust into the room -- are cracked vertically from floor to ceiling.


First you have determine if those portions that thrust in the DR are load bearing and if they are, has the load been, is the load being transferred adequately to ground.

[Is there any cracking in other locations that are close?]

This is a faaaairly simple task. Look to see what is under the end points of those extensions, or if there is a continuous bearing wall under the whole section.

You could of course just fill those cracks, but they may open up again if there is loading. Are the corners square or rounded?

Get a tile scriber which is a little tool that has a carbide tip. Use it to scratch the cracks and open them up and IMPORTANT, remove all loose plaster.

NEVER TRY TO GLUE LOOSE PLASTER BACK IN PLACE UNLESS IT'S A DETAILED PIECE WHICH IS, OF COURSE, A DIFFERENT BALLGAME

You can then use drywall mud and if the cracks are now wide, use it in conjunction with drywalling paper tape.

The trick to getting a smooth surface is to do repeated fillings, with as broad a knife/blade/trowel as is possible. Don't worry that there are deep recesses in the first coat. You could use a fast set drywall mud for the first coat but make sure that with this coat [all coats actually] you skim the excess off.

Never leave bumps or lumps. It's easier and way less messy to add later than remove.

There should never be any need to sand until after the final thin layer of mud is done. This final layer should be a thin skim coat to fill tiny holes and recesses.

Don't sand, wet sponge each layer smooth.
ehBeth
 
  1  
Reply Tue 24 Aug, 2010 11:20 am
@JTT,
JTT wrote:
wet sponge each layer smooth.


while that whole post was helpful, this ^ tip is the one I found most useful (when someone finally told me)
0 Replies
 
Fido
 
  0  
Reply Tue 24 Aug, 2010 01:22 pm
@ehBeth,
Quote:
ehBeth wrote:

Rockhead wrote:

plastering is an acquired skill.


quite wonderfully, plastering and making dental plates and preparing cake batter have a lot of similarities - once you've got the texture right you've done the most difficult part

POM is a phenomenal baker - with the right advice she could probably make a good go of repairing plaster


Don't mess with plaster to repair plaster...Plaster cannot be sanded, so it has to go on right the first time... Skaroo that... Just by some topping and blast in in... But if you do not resolve the structural issues it will crack again...



0 Replies
 
Fido
 
  1  
Reply Tue 24 Aug, 2010 01:27 pm
@JTT,
JTT wrote:

Quote:
There is a square bay in the dining room and the outside corners -- those that thrust into the room -- are cracked vertically from floor to ceiling.


First you have determine if those portions that thrust in the DR are load bearing and if they are, has the load been, is the load being transferred adequately to ground.

[Is there any cracking in other locations that are close?]

This is a faaaairly simple task. Look to see what is under the end points of those extensions, or if there is a continuous bearing wall under the whole section.

You could of course just fill those cracks, but they may open up again if there is loading. Are the corners square or rounded?

Get a tile scriber which is a little tool that has a carbide tip. Use it to scratch the cracks and open them up and IMPORTANT, remove all loose plaster.

NEVER TRY TO GLUE LOOSE PLASTER BACK IN PLACE UNLESS IT'S A DETAILED PIECE WHICH IS, OF COURSE, A DIFFERENT BALLGAME

You can then use drywall mud and if the cracks are now wide, use it in conjunction with drywalling paper tape.

The trick to getting a smooth surface is to do repeated fillings, with as broad a knife/blade/trowel as is possible. Don't worry that there are deep recesses in the first coat. You could use a fast set drywall mud for the first coat but make sure that with this coat [all coats actually] you skim the excess off.

Never leave bumps or lumps. It's easier and way less messy to add later than remove.

There should never be any need to sand until after the final thin layer of mud is done. This final layer should be a thin skim coat to fill tiny holes and recesses.

Don't sand, wet sponge each layer smooth.

Try to get it smooth, but the hard part is having no bubble.. If you use a wide knife, it will have a bend in the blade, and that bend should point away from the wal because that tends to hold the mud to the middle... Don't worry about too much because excess is easily remove with a large damp spunge, and then finish sand with fine paper..
0 Replies
 
JTT
 
  1  
Reply Tue 24 Aug, 2010 04:27 pm
@plainoldme,
Quote:
I saw the This Old House guys mend a crack using metal buttons that are driven into the wall with an electric drill. I have an electric drill but am timid about using it.


How wide was the crack that was being mended, POM?

If the cracks you have end up being wide, in order to get to a solid purchase, you can hand screw in 1 inch long or 1 and 1/4 inch long drywall screws, leaving the heads a 1/4 inch or so below the finished level. This will provide great purchase for the filler.

I recommend a quick set drywall mud for the first and maybe the second application depending on the depth of the cracks. These are stronger than All Purpose Drywall Mud which is made soft for easy sanding.

I think someone mentioned, [Fido perhaps] that you DO NOT want this first layer to be a "finished level" layer. Make sure you leave it below the finish level.

Just as the wind never fills in a depression/hole with the first blow, so it is with drywall mudding/plaster/mortar. Gradual applications of tightly pulled mud, with sponging, [after a layer is dry] between coats will yield a perfect, paint ready surface.
0 Replies
 
plainoldme
 
  1  
Reply Wed 25 Aug, 2010 04:57 am
@Fido,
I had an ex-husband who took out the wet plaster . . . actually horsehair plaster . . . from a 1920s house and replaced it with drywall. No thanks. My income is too small to support that sort of replacement, which I would have done with the ceiling in the living room: small areas of plaster crisscrossed with lathing. It looks like an attic. I painted the ceiling lavender rather than leaving it white which helped.
plainoldme
 
  1  
Reply Wed 25 Aug, 2010 05:10 am
I am dizzy from reading these responses. Have to work for a few hours at the liquor store than off to a faculty orientation, so there is not a minute to spare today.

I spent a long time patching the walls of this room with joint compound. The room has a fireplace opposite the bay that protrudes into the room and one of the short walls is angled with a glass door in it, keeping drafts from the hall out. This is really a beautiful room.

The former owner's son was a skin diver by profession who helped his mom a lot with home repairs. Generally, he didn't know what he was doing: he is responsible for at least one wall in the first floor bath varying a half inch from top to bottom. You should have seen the frustration on the face of the paper hanger (I knew I would be sitting on the floor, crying, if I even attempted it. It was worse than I thought.) I hired to do this tiny room. But, having a son who is helpful is nothing to criticize. I just wish he had taken more care: he didn't sand the patches in the upstairs hall.

I am not certain what a deep or wide crack is.

The wet sponge idea sounds terrific!

Someone told me that patching, then priming, will reveal more flaws and is a good way to proceed. That is what I did. The walls are not perfect but better. I think that one wall was replaced/repaired by a pro. It is absolutely smooth.

This is an eccentric house, which is why I love it. There are seven walls in the living room. If you discount the bay and the thrust fireplace, there are five walls in the dining room!
JTT
 
  1  
Reply Wed 25 Aug, 2010 10:06 am
@plainoldme,
Quote:
This is the same country (US) that continues to claim that we are careful about collateral damage.


If he added a wall after the house was built, he can't be faulted for framing to the existing differential, POM. Would you rather he had built a square/equal length wall and had a gap? That could have worked with some wide moldings to hide.

Quote:
You should have seen the frustration on the face of the paper hanger


Probably he forgot to measure accurately for his estimate and had to buy an extra roll. Paper has got to be the easiest thing to cover such a thing, unless there is a pattern that reveals.

Quote:
I am not certain what a deep or wide crack is.


Tell us what the spread is and we can go from there. Better yet, take a few shots and post them.

Quote:
Someone told me that patching, then priming, will reveal more flaws and is a good way to proceed.


You should be able to see any flaws by looking down the wall at a shallow angle, that is, go to one side of the wall and look down its length. Try from both sides with the Sun shining in or shine a lamp on the wall. See anything, go back and sponge/light sand. Check again.

Fido
 
  1  
Reply Wed 25 Aug, 2010 10:42 am
@plainoldme,
plainoldme wrote:

I had an ex-husband who took out the wet plaster . . . actually horsehair plaster . . . from a 1920s house and replaced it with drywall. No thanks. My income is too small to support that sort of replacement, which I would have done with the ceiling in the living room: small areas of plaster crisscrossed with lathing. It looks like an attic. I painted the ceiling lavender rather than leaving it white which helped.

It just depends upon what you are dealing with... If you have young children you cannot want them to be around any sort of leaded paint as children are all born brain damaged and hardly need more.... You can lose the house of find the money to do it up right, but children with even slight lead poisoning pay a price for life...
0 Replies
 
Fido
 
  1  
Reply Wed 25 Aug, 2010 10:46 am
@plainoldme,
plainoldme wrote:

I am dizzy from reading these responses. Have to work for a few hours at the liquor store than off to a faculty orientation, so there is not a minute to spare today.

I spent a long time patching the walls of this room with joint compound. The room has a fireplace opposite the bay that protrudes into the room and one of the short walls is angled with a glass door in it, keeping drafts from the hall out. This is really a beautiful room.

The former owner's son was a skin diver by profession who helped his mom a lot with home repairs. Generally, he didn't know what he was doing: he is responsible for at least one wall in the first floor bath varying a half inch from top to bottom. You should have seen the frustration on the face of the paper hanger (I knew I would be sitting on the floor, crying, if I even attempted it. It was worse than I thought.) I hired to do this tiny room. But, having a son who is helpful is nothing to criticize. I just wish he had taken more care: he didn't sand the patches in the upstairs hall.

I am not certain what a deep or wide crack is.

The wet sponge idea sounds terrific!

Someone told me that patching, then priming, will reveal more flaws and is a good way to proceed. That is what I did. The walls are not perfect but better. I think that one wall was replaced/repaired by a pro. It is absolutely smooth.

This is an eccentric house, which is why I love it. There are seven walls in the living room. If you discount the bay and the thrust fireplace, there are five walls in the dining room!

I doubt what you say... Old beams sag, and I had small rooms with half inch drops from end to end... As I said, you can jack up those beams and gradually take out the sag... Careful or you will crack more plaster...
JTT
 
  1  
Reply Wed 25 Aug, 2010 12:15 pm
@JTT,
HTF did this,

This is the same country (US) that continues to claim that we are careful about collateral damage.

get in here? Question Laughing
0 Replies
 
plainoldme
 
  1  
Reply Thu 26 Aug, 2010 08:40 pm
@Fido,
That particular room was completely replastered. I suspect it had been a pantry and it was converted to a bath. Why are you doubting what I say about a house you have never seen?
0 Replies
 
 

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