Why are my drawers lopsided?

it sounds like the dresser got damaged somehow during the move...

I used to work in a used-furniture shop. Flat-pack stuff is not really meant to be moved from where it is set up. You might be able to straighten it using corner braces, sold for this purpose.

It's IKEA. I would toss it and get something else.

IKEA stuff doesn't do well when moved or re-assembled.

You might check the back of the dresser and see if the frame has moved or twisted. That would make the drawers not to be able to slide in. There should be a one piece back of the dresser that could have gotten loosened or moved.

IKEA is great for ideas, but their quality is for crap in furniture.

I am so disappointed that this has nothing to do with wearing cockeyed undies (be they boxers or briefs).

Because they were made in an Asian sweatshop by eight-year olds for Ivanka Trump's label?

I've got some Ikea furniture that is over 30 years old and still in great condition. It's done well over several long-distance moves.

The general rule (I find) is taking things apart as completely as possible and rebuilding it after the move. Of course this works best if your Ikea furniture is wood v particle-board.

Corner braces are great - I've used them on everything from true antiques to Ikea flat-pack.

Without seeing your furniture and knowing what happened during its move, we can only offer speculation . I own a few recently purchased IKEA furniture items so I'll speak from my experience as an owner and someone who possesses knowledge of how furniture is made. I have average mechanical ability and a typical amount of (intact) thumbs.

I have 2 items, (one I'm satisfied with and one not-so-much):
• a small file cabinet table suitable for a printer and storage of paper items. Though it's flat-pack it had no issues going together and aligns nicely.

• a horizontal 6-drawer chest of drawers with 3 short and 3 long drawers. Here there was trouble during assembly. As these panels are pressed wood (glued particles e.g. sawdust) difficulty occurred as I screwed in some of the hardware of the panels together. In some cases screwing can (and did) split the wood. Once the screw-hole becomes compromised, it no longer can be reliable as far as its ability to stay in alignment and maintain a 90 degree angle.

Once the panel then gets moved or stressed from either being drooor banged or weight out on it, it's going to lean. In some cases, (assuming it was tightened properly), it may no longer allow the doors to close well, drawers to open well or shelves to be level.

In other words your new furniture is like owning some used furniture 10 yrs too early.

Furthermore, once a screw is in, do not unscrew it.

Ive got some older Ikea storage Units in my tudio. These were made when they still used PLYWOOD as a structural wood. Nowadays it seems that you have to look at all (DIY) cabinets and chests of drawers to mak ure they arent constructed by high density particle board. This stuff is junk and will succumb to gravity by drooping or drawers going out of line.
The angle braces are a good final fix when all else fails. Ive found that, with the drawer all squared up on a worktable, you can gain some strength by coating the drawer with a wood hardener. That gives the drawer a bit more stability by imparting a n acrylic "crust" .

Whenever Id get one of these cheap file cabinets at a yard sale Id always do the wood hardener trick and often Id remove screws along the top of the pieces and shoot the holes with epoxy or acrylamide "super" glue and rescrew the part together.

I was lucky with some of my oldest Ikea - it was made of true hardwood.

Movers are often startled by how heavy my old Ikea pieces are - they mostly know the newer lightweight stuff.

^ one of the best tips I was taught in the years I moved every 4 months for co-op work/studies

mmmm the smell of epoxy

Learn something new everyday.