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EcoWater 3000....... Repair or replace?

 
 
View Profile PoorBoy
 
Reply Tue 30 Jun, 2009 07:49 pm
I have an 11 year old EcoWater Systems 3000 R30 softener. The thing has worked flawlessly until a couple months ago. After each cycle more water is left in the tank. I have cleaned the ventura, gasket & screens. It has a good vacuum. I can manually put the unit in brine cycle and unplug the unit. After a couple of hours, the brine is drawn down.

Here is my dilemma. The only dealer within 60 miles is either not interested in my business, or his secretary is loosing my messages. I have called twice in the last month. So I have decided to go it alone.

I read that a $20 ventura / gasket kit may take care of the problem. I guess I may try that first. The original installation did not include a bypass. If I have to disassemble the valve to fix the problem, then maybe it is time to replace the unit with a bypass. I really was happy with this unit, but will not purchase from a dealer who apparently will be unreliable. The Fleck units have an attractive price. Is it possible to retrofit a fleck valve to an old ecowater unit?

The last time I had my well water tested it was about 40 gpg. We have 4 people living in our house.

Open to suggestions.
 
View Profile H2O MAN
 
  1  
Reply Wed 1 Jul, 2009 05:52 am

It's my understanding that ECOwater control valves received substantial upgrades in 2005 making the new systems much more reliable and efficient.
All of the new systems come with by pass valves.

The Fleck digital 2510SE is and excellent control valve, but it won't fit the ECOwater tank without a reducing collar.
I think you would be better off with a brand new system... maybe michael1111 will comment on your situation.

Good luck.
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  1  
Reply Wed 1 Jul, 2009 05:50 pm
You should look at a softener using the Clack WS-1 also.
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View Profile PoorBoy
 
  1  
Reply Wed 1 Jul, 2009 09:13 pm
Thanks for the advice guys.
Both the Fleck and the Clack look like good units and are similarly priced.
I guess I just need to decide how much time and effort to put into this old unit.
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Reply Thu 2 Jul, 2009 01:19 pm
Replacing the Nozzle & Venturi gasket kit will definitely help but is really only the first step to correcting the problem. You may also have to replace the main control valve seals. Easy enough to do but you will have to depressurize the softener. Also easy to do. There is a screen at the bottom of the Brine Valve assembly located in the Brine Well (4" diameter black tube in the salt tank) which has to be cleaned. Remove and dismantle the Brine Valve asm. to get to the screen.
Make sure there aren't any restrictions with the softener's drain (discharge) hose. No kinks, not crushed, no restrictions in the flow control in the drain elbow located on the right side of the main control valve.
Do the easy things first: drain hose, nozzle gasket kit and brine valve screen before servicing the main valve.
Remember, softeners generally work better with good water pressure. If you have a sediment filter installed in front of the softener, make sure it isn't plugged with dirt.

Hope this helps!
View Profile PoorBoy
 
  1  
Reply Thu 2 Jul, 2009 07:22 pm
Thanks for the information.
I will give it a go!
View Profile H2O MAN
 
  1  
Reply Thu 2 Jul, 2009 07:37 pm


Damon,

Excellent first post... welcome to A2K!
  1  
Reply Fri 3 Jul, 2009 09:55 am
Great!
Let me know how you make out.

D.
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  1  
Reply Fri 3 Jul, 2009 09:56 am
Thanks...wish I knew about this site before.
Better late than never.
D.
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View Profile PoorBoy
 
  1  
Reply Thu 9 Jul, 2009 07:48 pm
Hey Damon,

I haven't ordered any parts yet. I wanted to make all of the checks that you suggested first and to study the operation of the unit to get a good fell of how it works.

Here is what I found so far. I have water leaking through to the nozzle/venturi when the unit is in service mode. If I take the cap off while in service, there is a small steady stream of water coming through. If I manually run through the cycles, at the completion of the fast rinse when it goes back to service mode, water starts to trickle out of the brine valve and I guess it continues to do so until the float causes the valve to shut off.

Does it sound like replacing the main control valve seals would fix this, or am I way off base?

Thanks!
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