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EcoWater 3000....... Repair or replace?

 
 
PoorBoy
 
Reply Tue 30 Jun, 2009 07:49 pm
I have an 11 year old EcoWater Systems 3000 R30 softener. The thing has worked flawlessly until a couple months ago. After each cycle more water is left in the tank. I have cleaned the ventura, gasket & screens. It has a good vacuum. I can manually put the unit in brine cycle and unplug the unit. After a couple of hours, the brine is drawn down.

Here is my dilemma. The only dealer within 60 miles is either not interested in my business, or his secretary is loosing my messages. I have called twice in the last month. So I have decided to go it alone.

I read that a $20 ventura / gasket kit may take care of the problem. I guess I may try that first. The original installation did not include a bypass. If I have to disassemble the valve to fix the problem, then maybe it is time to replace the unit with a bypass. I really was happy with this unit, but will not purchase from a dealer who apparently will be unreliable. The Fleck units have an attractive price. Is it possible to retrofit a fleck valve to an old ecowater unit?

The last time I had my well water tested it was about 40 gpg. We have 4 people living in our house.

Open to suggestions.
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Type: Discussion • Score: 0 • Views: 26,620 • Replies: 31
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H2O MAN
 
  1  
Reply Wed 1 Jul, 2009 05:52 am
@PoorBoy,

It's my understanding that ECOwater control valves received substantial upgrades in 2005 making the new systems much more reliable and efficient.
All of the new systems come with by pass valves.

The Fleck digital 2510SE is and excellent control valve, but it won't fit the ECOwater tank without a reducing collar.
I think you would be better off with a brand new system... maybe michael1111 will comment on your situation.

Good luck.
0 Replies
 
Gary Slusser
 
  1  
Reply Wed 1 Jul, 2009 05:50 pm
@PoorBoy,
You should look at a softener using the Clack WS-1 also.
0 Replies
 
PoorBoy
 
  1  
Reply Wed 1 Jul, 2009 09:13 pm
Thanks for the advice guys.
Both the Fleck and the Clack look like good units and are similarly priced.
I guess I just need to decide how much time and effort to put into this old unit.
0 Replies
 
Damon Seheult
 
  2  
Reply Thu 2 Jul, 2009 01:19 pm
@PoorBoy,
Replacing the Nozzle & Venturi gasket kit will definitely help but is really only the first step to correcting the problem. You may also have to replace the main control valve seals. Easy enough to do but you will have to depressurize the softener. Also easy to do. There is a screen at the bottom of the Brine Valve assembly located in the Brine Well (4" diameter black tube in the salt tank) which has to be cleaned. Remove and dismantle the Brine Valve asm. to get to the screen.
Make sure there aren't any restrictions with the softener's drain (discharge) hose. No kinks, not crushed, no restrictions in the flow control in the drain elbow located on the right side of the main control valve.
Do the easy things first: drain hose, nozzle gasket kit and brine valve screen before servicing the main valve.
Remember, softeners generally work better with good water pressure. If you have a sediment filter installed in front of the softener, make sure it isn't plugged with dirt.

Hope this helps!
PoorBoy
 
  1  
Reply Thu 2 Jul, 2009 07:22 pm
@Damon Seheult,
Thanks for the information.
I will give it a go!
H2O MAN
 
  1  
Reply Thu 2 Jul, 2009 07:37 pm
@Damon Seheult,


Damon,

Excellent first post... welcome to A2K!
Damon Seheult
 
  1  
Reply Fri 3 Jul, 2009 09:55 am
@PoorBoy,
Great!
Let me know how you make out.

D.
0 Replies
 
Damon Seheult
 
  1  
Reply Fri 3 Jul, 2009 09:56 am
@H2O MAN,
Thanks...wish I knew about this site before.
Better late than never.
D.
0 Replies
 
PoorBoy
 
  1  
Reply Thu 9 Jul, 2009 07:48 pm
@Damon Seheult,
Hey Damon,

I haven't ordered any parts yet. I wanted to make all of the checks that you suggested first and to study the operation of the unit to get a good fell of how it works.

Here is what I found so far. I have water leaking through to the nozzle/venturi when the unit is in service mode. If I take the cap off while in service, there is a small steady stream of water coming through. If I manually run through the cycles, at the completion of the fast rinse when it goes back to service mode, water starts to trickle out of the brine valve and I guess it continues to do so until the float causes the valve to shut off.

Does it sound like replacing the main control valve seals would fix this, or am I way off base?

Thanks!
Davethewaterdoctor
 
  1  
Reply Wed 6 Jan, 2010 07:01 pm
@PoorBoy,
After 11 years ANY softener will need service to the valve...........Easy fix....would take me 15min....all you need is a valve rebuild kit......only available through the dealer.....it will be new orings.....2 new teflon coated disks and 2 new seals. $123.75 is what i sell it for! Should also replace resin media while you have it apart! $130 per cubic ft retail. Your system will last another 10-20 years with proper maintenance!

I would def repair it!
Mine in my garage is from 1996! I AM A DEALER AND DONT HAVE A BRAND NEW ONE! IF IT CAN BE FIXED WHY THROW IT AWAY?
Spring H2O
 
  1  
Reply Sat 27 Mar, 2010 07:28 am
@Davethewaterdoctor,
I have a EcoWater 3000 R 20 E/D Plus , Serial No. 14996 installed 08/24/98. It has been used very little since we have been on a Municipal Water Co. System and don't need this unit. It has a Lifetime Warranty on the EcoLife (TM) Resin. I have all service records. I would like to sell it.
Lady Devana
 
  1  
Reply Thu 19 Aug, 2010 11:52 am
@Davethewaterdoctor,
Dave

Do you do repairs on the Eco water systems? If so where are you located. I am in Olympia Washington. We do not have anyone in this area that repairs these systems. I need help Please contact me at susanne50@aol.com. Thanks Linda
0 Replies
 
Lady Devana
 
  1  
Reply Thu 19 Aug, 2010 11:53 am
@Spring H2O,
Hi again

I have a 3000-R30 system
0 Replies
 
MFrias
 
  2  
Reply Tue 20 Dec, 2011 07:40 am
@Davethewaterdoctor,
We have an ERR3000 for approximately 8 years now. We currently have it disconnected where the water is not really going through the machine. We have turned off because there is a constant leak. This machine is currently set up to release water once a day however, if we turn it on, the leak will be constant. I guess this is the reason the water has such a bad taste. In other words, we are using the water from the city. Do you think installing the valve rebuild kit would solve this problem? A local company wants to charge us $500 to add resin, carbon and repair the leak. What do you think?
willyinnv
 
  1  
Reply Wed 21 Dec, 2011 11:46 am
@MFrias,
I've almost the exact same problem [on ERR 3000R20]. PlZ gurus here, give us an answer! I'm a capable DIYer (Cert. Acft. Mechanic). ThanX 'n Havva Happy!
pullo
 
  1  
Reply Tue 27 Dec, 2011 03:58 pm
@willyinnv,
Me too. I have a Ecowater ERR 3000R20 and I have a constant water leak from the draining tube that has become a source of concern. The Ecowater people want to charge about $800 to fix it, which involves disassembling the unit, messing with the resin and who knows what else. I think $800 is a lot of money and I wonder if there is any other way to fix the leak. Thanks!
ct water
 
  0  
Reply Tue 27 Dec, 2011 10:56 pm
@pullo,
need 688 disc kit . part about $140 retail. unless there is an error code that should fix it. nozzle/venturi kit or just the gasket would also recommend
ct water
 
  1  
Reply Tue 27 Dec, 2011 11:01 pm
@MFrias,
need 688 disc kit to stop leak. can put light against resin tank to see if resin level is low. check owners manual I am an Ecowater dealer since 1977
0 Replies
 
luckytravelor13
 
  1  
Reply Sun 1 Jan, 2012 04:44 pm
I moved into a home with the EcoWater system and had no information! I has recently started leaking. I would like to disconnect and use the city water, which is good, but can't figure out!
It is old, any labels are gone, and the one value I could turn actually turned off all water to the house. I have called the local dealer and he wants $200 t just come out and diagnose.
Any suggestions?
 

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